We’re asked very often about hair typing systems. More specifically – many naturals are interested in how to determine their hair type.
Generally speaking – we don’t discuss hair typing very often because there are many things that each person must do to care for their hair regardless of their individual hair type.
Having said that, we do recognize that there are some differences associated with caring for certain types of hair. Furthermore, many women utilize hair typing systems to describe the way their hair looks.
I think it’s important to be clear about a few things before we begin discussing hair types. There are multiple hair typing systems – including the Andre Walker Hair Typing System, LOIS, and FIA’s Hair Typing System.
We don’t endorse or recommend any particular hair typing system, however, we recognize that the system created by Andre Walker is substantially more popular well-known and communicated than the other hair typing systems.
Note: This doesn’t imply that Andre Walker’s system is necessarily the best or most accurate.
During this guide I will discuss very specific details associated with the most popular hair typing systems – beginning with Andre Walker, then LOIS and finally FIA.
Disclaimer: It’s very easy to incorrectly determine your hair type if you only look at the pictorial representations that have been provided. Please don’t rule out a particular hair type simply because your hair doesn’t look like the pictures below.
Andre Walker Hair Typing System
Andre makes it very clear in his book that everyone has good hair regardless of ethnicity. He was hoping to immediately debunk the often ridiculous good hair vs. bad hair debate prior to diving into a discussion about hair typing.
Unfortunately, many people believe that Andre’s Hair Typing System is hierarchical and intentionally places kinky hair in the bottom (“worst”) category. Andre has made statements over the years that have offended many Type 4 women – including the following comment:
Andre Walker on Type 4 hair: “I always recommend embracing your natural texture. Kinky hair can have limited styling options; that’s the only hair type that I suggest altering with professional relaxing”.
Type 4 hair types include the most common hair types found in black hair.
That statement started a tremendous amount of buzz on the internet. He later issued a statement to clarify his initial comments immediately following the Elle article on his personal website.
Regardless of his original intentions, his comments definitely offended many women.
Even if you have a negative opinion of Andre Walker, I encourage you to read the book yourself and develop your own opinion of his hair typing system in Andre Talks Hair!.
Andre’s system isn’t communicated accurately on many popular blogs that have written articles about the system. Having said that, let’s discuss the hair types defined in Andre Talks Hair!.
Type 1: Straight Hair
Type 1 Straight Hair: Generally speaking Type 1 hair is straight; however Andre categorizes this hair type into three very specific segments – Type 1A, Type 1B, and Type 1C.
- Type 1A hair is described as fine, very thin and soft with a noticeable shine.
- Type 1B hair is medium-textured and has more body than Type 1A hair.
- Type 1C hair is the most resistant to curly styling and relatively coarse compared to other Type 1 hair types.
Type 2: Wavy Hair
Type 2 Wavy Hair: Type 2 is wavy hair that usually isn’t overly oily or very dry. The thought is that Type 2 hair falls right in the middle of Type 1 and Type 3.
- Type 2A hair is fine and thin. It is relatively easy to handle from a styling perspective because it can easily be straightened or curled.
- Type 2B hair characteristically has waves that tend to adhere to the shape of your head.
- Type 2C hair will frizz easily and it is fairly coarse.
Type 3: Curly Hair
Type 3 Curly Hair: Curly hair textures have a definite “S” shaped curl pattern. Since the cuticle doesn’t lay flat, you will notice that curly hair isn’t nearly as shiny as Type 1 (straight hair) or Type 2 (wavy hair) hair types.
- Type 3A hair is very shiny and loose.
- Type 3B hair has a medium amount curls, ranging from bouncy ringlets (spiral like curls of hair) to tight corkscrews (spiral-shaped corkscrew curls).
- Type 3C hair isn’t a part of the Andre Walker Hair Typing System. Please see the “what’s missing” section below for more information.
Type 4: Kinky Hair
Type 4 Kinky Hair: Type 4 is “kinky” or more appropriately full of tight coils (tightly curled hair). Typically, Type 4 hair is also extremely wiry and fragile.
Often times, it appears to be coarse, however, it is really very fine, with several thin hair strands densely packed together. Note that type 4 hair is one of the most common hair types found in black hair (African American hair).
- Type 4A hair is full of tight coils. It has an “S” pattern when stretched, much like Type 3 curly hair.
- Type 4B hair has a less defined pattern of curls and looks more like a “Z” as the hair bends with very sharp angles.
- Type 4C hair isn’t a part of the Andre Walker Hair Typing System. Please see the “what’s missing” section below for more information.
What’s Missing? Now, Let’s Discuss Hair Type 3C and Type 4C
You’ll notice that Type 3C and Type 4C hair types aren’t mentioned in the discussion above, that’s because they were not included in the original Andre Walker system.
Type 3C was created after Andre Walker released his hair typing system by a community member at NaturallyCurly.com. The prevailing thought was that the original hair typing system left this hair type out. Consequently, Type 3C hair has been defined as tight curls or coils that look like corkscrews.
Type 4C, like Type 3C, isn’t an actual hair type according to Andre Walker’s Hair System. His comments are actually very simple regarding Type 4 (Kinky) hair – if you can see a definite curl pattern, then you have Type 4A hair. If you can’t identify a defined, specific curl pattern, then your hair type is 4B.
I would imagine that the Type 4C hair type was created by a member within the natural hair community – just like the Type 3C hair type.
LOIS Hair Typing System (often spelled as L.O.I.S Hair Typing System)
LOIS was created by a website that is no longer active. The hair typing is considered by many to be very user-friendly – due to its simplicity.
The LOIS hair typing system defines hair using three characteristics: (1) pattern, (2) strand size, and (3) texture.
Hair Patterns
The LOIS system defines the hair pattern by the letters LOIS. I’ll explain:
- L = If your hair is dominated by right angles and substantially bends with nearly no curve, then you’re considered a pattern “L”.
- O = If your hair strand curls or coils significantly and appear to be shaped like the letter “O”, then you’re considered a pattern “O”.
- I = If your hair has no distinctive curls or bends and primarily lies flat against your head, then you’re considered a pattern “I”.
- S = If your hair strand has “S” shaped curls or waves with defined hills and valleys, then you’re considered a pattern “S”.
Finally, it’s important to note that you may have several different LOIS hair patterns on your head. When this occurs, the system allows you to combine LOIS letters to determine your hair pattern.
For example, your hair pattern may be an “OS” LOIS hair type. In this example, your hair would contain primarily a combination of “O” shaped spiral curls and “S” shaped curly waves with defined hills and valleys.
Hair Strand Sizes
Identifying your hair strand within the LOIS system starts with using a strand of frayed thread. One piece of a frayed thread (like a piece of sewing thread) is used as a proxy to determine the size of your hair strand.
The general thought (according to the LOIS hair typing system) is that a piece of thread is approximately the size of a medium sized strand of hair.
- Smaller than a piece of sewing thread = Thin, fine hair strands
- Size of a piece of sewing thread = Medium hair strands
- Larger than a piece of sewing thread = Think hair strands
Hair Textures
- Thready – This thready hair texture has a low sheen and a bright shine when the hair is stretched. This hair texture should have low frizz and get wet easily. Even though this hair texture wets easily, the water will dry out very quickly.
- Wiry – This hair texture sparkly glossy appearance with very little shine and low frizz. When the wiry hair texture is wet, the water will bead up or bounce off the hair strands. This hair texture is more difficult to get fully wet.
- Cottony – The cottony hair texture has a low sheen, a bright shine when the hair is stretched and is usually is highly frizzy. The cottony texture absorbs water very quickly; however, it doesn’t get completely wet very fast.
- Spongy – The spongy hair texture absorbs water (like a sponge) and has a high sheen and low shine.
- Silky – The silky texture has a low sheen and a bright high shine. The level of expected frizz with this hair texture can vary substantially. Silky hair becomes completely wet very easily.
How to Find Your LOIS Hair Type
Examine a few of the most common types of hair on your head. If you have multiple hair types within the LOIS system, then you should begin by examining the most common hair type of your head.
Prior to examining your hair, be sure that it has been recently washed (rinsed in cold water) and doesn’t have any hair products applied to it.
Another option is to wash a strand of hair that has been removed from the scalp and rinse it in cold water. Allow the individual hair strand to dry without touching it to get an accurate depiction of the LOIS hair type.
The NaturallyCurly Hair Typing System
According to NatuallyCurly, your hair type is the key to determining the right products and hairstyles of your hair. This hair typing system focuses on three types of hair: Wavy, Curly, and Coily.
The NaturallyCurly system further classifies the three aforementioned categories into sub-classes: A to C.
These subclassifications, which are based on the diameter of the hair’s wave, curl, or coil, are borrowed directly from the original Andre Walker hair typing system.
As per usual, the goal of this hair typing system is to clear up the confusion so women can embrace their naturally curly hair and find the best hair products for their hair.
The reality is that many women don’t fit perfectly into one category and subclassification. It’s common to have a combination of hair types (or different types of curls) on your head.
Type 2: Wavy Hair
Type 2 hair has a wavy texture. It’s not quite straight, yet it’s not fully curly. It’s a spectrum that ranges from thick, S-shaped waves mixed with curls to loose loops.
The type 2 texture tends to be flatter around the root which makes it lay close to the head. It gets curlier from around the ears down.
Type 3: Curly Hair
Type 3 hair ranges from tight, curly tendrils to light curls. It generally has a combination of different textures. Type 3 hair types are also defined as springy curls. They have more volume as well as height at roots than type 2 hair types, which are wavy.
3B hair is generally dense. Use humidity blocking styling products. You might want to use styling milk if you want more definition but less frizz.
3C tends to have the highest amount of volume, but also tends to have the most shrinkage. Stretch and enhance gently without heat with a flexi-rod set, twist-out, or a set of perm rods.
Type 4: Coily Hair
Coily hair is thin and fine, or wiry and coarse, and has coils that are densely packed. People often think coily hair is robust, but that is not the case!
It’s the most fragile texture due to having the fewest cuticle layers protecting it from dryness. The top hair concerns with type 4 hair are avoiding tangles, maintaining moisture, and fighting off shrinkage.
Use natural emollients with a thicker consistency, such as shea butter to get the most out of your twist out or wash-and-go after you wash.
The strands range from wiry and coarse to fine and thin. Pre-poo using coconut oil to retain your scalp’s natural chemistry.
Fia’s Hair Typing System
Fia’s Hair Typing System appears to expand on Andre Walker’s Hair Typing System and incorporate components of the LOIS Hair Typing System also.
The system defines hair using three classifiers: (1) the definition of your curls (think Andre Walker), (2) the appearance of most of your hair strands, and (3) the overall volume of your hair.
First Classifier: The first classifier which defines your hair type by determining the curliness of your hair strands (or the lack thereof – if that’s the case) is analogous to Andre Walker system utilizing Type 1 – straight hair, Type 2 – wavy hair, Type 3 – curly hair and Type 4 – really curly hair.
Second Classifier: The second classifier focuses on the appearance of the majority of your hair strands. Actually, this classifier is very similar to the hair strand sizes used within the LOIS system, but there are some minor differences in terminology.
- F – Fine: Fine, thin hair strands that feels almost like an ultra-fine strand of silk.
- M – Medium: Medium sized hair strands, which generally feel like rolling a cotton thread between your thumb and index fingers, are ones that simply fall in between the fine and coarse categories according to Fia’s Hair Typing System.
- C – Coarse: Think hair strands that feel hard and wiry.
Third Classifier: The third classification of Fia’s Hair Typing System measures the overall volume of your hair. Simply place your hair in a ponytail.
Include as much hair as possible in the ponytail. There is no need to worry too much about how your hair looks because the goal is to have the majority of your hair included in the ponytail.
Once you have the majority of your hair in a ponytail, the next step is to measure the circumference of the ponytail. You can use a soft tape measure or another method that won’t damage your hair to measure the circumference of your ponytail.
Simply wrap the soft tape measure around your ponytail below the elastic (ex. Goody Ouchless Hair Elastics) used to hold the ponytail together.
The number shown on the soft tape measure is used to determine whether your hair fits into the thin, normal or thick according to Fia’s Hair Typing System.
- Thin – The circumference of the ponytail is less than 2 inches (less than 5 centimeters)
- Normal – The circumference of the ponytail is between 2 – 4 inches (between 5-10 centimeters)
- Thick – The circumference of the ponytail is greater than 4 inches (greater than 10 centimeters)
Note: The circumference is simply the measured distance around a circle or edge of an object that is roughly circular.
Emerging Hair Typing Systems
There are other emerging hair typing systems, but honestly, most of the new ones aren’t well known.
If these emerging systems achieve an adequate social following, then I will update this article to include a complete discussion of those hair typing systems.
At the moment, any hair typing system that doesn’t have a legitimate following within the natural hair community is considered outside of the scope of this guide.
Lately, many hair product manufacturers are creating proprietary hair typing systems in order to sell more hair products to individuals looking for personalization in their natural hair regimen.
That said, several manufacturers have created product guides based on the very well-known Andre Walker Hair Typing System to recommend their products on a personalized basis.
Ava Anderson says
Thank you so much for this article! I haven’t actually tried to figure out my hair type yet, but I’ve been wondering what category my hair falls into, and it’s nice to have it all laid out in one place, instead of having to go back and forth between a zillion websites to try to understand it all.
I love that you guys DON’T focus on hair typing on this website, because it is easier for new naturals like me. I played around on a few other sites before joining this one, and it was a mess because I had NO CLUE at all which forums were for my hair, and what type do I have, and everyone was so focused on it AND there is more than one system, so God forbid I said 4A in a forum that uses LOIS… it freaked me out, I didn’t know what they were talking about… But it is nice to have a means to understand what people mean when they say they 3B or 4A or whatever their hair type is… It helps me to paint the picture in my mind….
Sorry, I’ve rambled… long-story-short: thank you :)
Kenneth says
Ava – I understand exactly what you mean. There are many different acronyms and “things” that a new natural must learn just to participate in a conversation about hair. I’m glad that the article was helpful for you.
Kenneth
Deborah Drinkard says
Thank you!!!! I have been natural since 2013 and have tried so hard to tame this mane. I bought so many products and brutalized my hair along with my ego because all I ended up with is a damaged head of hair that wouldn’t grow like I wanted it to so I would chop it off and henna it and dye it and gel it and coconut relax it and the shrinkage was so frustrating that I was thinking of texturizing like I did before I went natural. Now I know I’m a type 4b with fine, thin, dry issues.
Now I can move on and except my fate. This article should be at the beginning of all natural hair journeys so after 5 years and 30 different hair products later…you know what will work for you and what won’t.
HALLELUJAH
Michelle @Radiant Brown Beauty says
Great article. I never heard of the LOIS system before.
As for the people who got upset re: Andre’s statement about relaxing, I think some ppl are a little too sensitive. The fact is, the curlier your texture, the more difficult it is to manage. Hence, the suggestion of a relaxer. I think what he was trying to say was that if you WANT to manage your tighter curl pattern, a relaxer is an option.
However, many naturals seem to be a bit hypocritical. How can you be so against relaxing and practically making those who get relaxers feel bad about not being natural. Yet get offended when a relaxed person has problems with their hair being natural. It’s a personal choice.
There are many ppl with relaxers who have long beautiful hair. I decided that my 3b/3c hair (if you want to type it) could be managed without the use of a relaxer. However, I know that if I had a kinkier pattern, I’d probably keep a relaxer too. And the great thing about it, is it’s all about CHOICE.
Kenneth says
Michelle – You’re exactly right – it’s about personal choice. Take care.
Kenneth
Aliyah Morrison says
I agree I have 3c/4a hair and I’m still learning how to take care of my hair but if I had real kinky 4b or 4c hair I would go back to a relaxed I wouldn’t be able to take care of kinky hair . I already struggle with tight curly hair . I’m so glad God blessed me with this hair .
EJ says
I know this is an old comment, but this is an awful thing to say. You are basically saying that if you have a 4b/4c texture, then you’re not blessed. I have 4a/b maybe some c hair, and I love it and think it’s a blessing.
Naomi says
But you are twisting her words. She didn’t say anything about you or your hair, and she didn’t claim 4b/4c texture is not a blessing in general. What she said is that she thinks SHE in particular would not be able to take good care of 4b/4c on HER head, and that’s it’s blessing for HER to have hair she has. That does not mean 4b/4c could not be a blessing for SOMEONE ELSE – for you, for example. Your hair is a blessing for you, hers is for her.
EJ says
Furthermore, I’m sure there are some people with type 1-3b hair that are saying to themselves “thank God He blessed me with this type and not that 3c/4a junk,” so don’t get too cocky.
Tina says
Your comment is concerning. 4C may be more work but I remain natural. My hair is manageable. 4C hair is beautiful.
MALAIKA WARD says
So what products do you use? How do you get it to grow with out straightening it? I shaved my head.
Genie says
I have found that using pure henna (Lawsonia inermis) for 10 years has loosened my curl pattern from 3b/3c to 2c/3a. I still have 3b/3c hair on the back of my head because I left henna around the hairline and root/crown for a longer duration and more frequently than the back. This being said, if you don’t want shrinkage and want your curls to lengthen permanently with added weight and decreased porosity, henna is for you. If you do not want your curls to permanently loosen, henna is not for you. If you have hennaed your hair and experience curl loosening, you can apply Amla paste for 2 or more hours which will break the hydrogen bonds of your hair, rinse it out, and immediately put your hair in perm rods. This can help increase the tightness of your curl pattern, only if your hair strands are naturally curly. I have hair strands that are coarse, flat/ ribbon-like, and low porosity. My hair is a mixture of S-waves with tight corkscrews at the bottom, ringlet spirals, and looser circluar waves now that it has been permanently loosened with henna. My hair is all one length. I am considering getting a reZO cut to add volume and even out my curl pattern. The hennaed parts of the hair have to be removed if you want to allow the curl pattern to return to its natural state.
Genie says
And in response to EJ, in my opinion you are correct. It is not fair to people with beautiful type 4 hair, that people with a different curl pattern would discriminate type 4 hair through exclusion. Also, I think that mixed people such as myself should not be discriminated and excluded from the natural hair community. We all have different hair. Hair should not be yet another concept to drive people apart.
Keneesha says
Frankly I’m so tired of this hair type mess I could cuss. I’ve spent my two natural years having hair envy issues and what I finally came to terms with is my hair is mine and regardless of its texture it doesn’t do what I say anyway, it never has. I think this hair type is yet another method designed to separate people. What they don’t recognize in these classifications is the possibility of mixed hair types. I see more women write about being 2 or more hair types than just one, which I feel makes the system as well as the tips geared towards care for these hair types null and void.
Kenneth says
The hair typing systems definitely aren’t perfect.
Afrochica says
I have OS, wiry, 4a hair according to the AW system.
Angie says
The article was very interesting and enlightening. He must have taken a lot of time to find a way to classify hair. However, I do agree with his statement that everyone has good hair. This is a concept I honestly believe in wholeheartedly. This to me is just another way of dividing and stereotyping people. It also has the effect of causing people to have low self-esteem, and further degraded by any and all. It does my heart good to see women of color going back to their natural hair and taking pride in how different it is. God did not make us all alike. Next if we are not careful, they will be separating us yet again on eye color. I have been natural for over 20 years now. When I made the change and did the big chop people looked at me like I was crazy. I was free from the conformity of society. Free to be ME! Short, curly, thin, fine hair and all…… :)
Kenneth says
Congrats on being natural for 20+ years. I’m sure 20 years ago people were looking crazy when you big chopped. It’s much more the norm nowadays than back then, but I’m sure it felt great to do your own thing.
Kenneth
Phyllis says
Thanks for info best advice I ever heard so far I have became a product junkie trying to find what works for my hair I you tube myself to death but in the end my hair knows best. My hair is thin don’t know what type and really know care but I do the best I can do I moisturize I use butter because that works best then creams water oil butter is my best method as long as my hair is healthy I’m good some days it’s not so with that being said I love the info you put out there for all of us sincerly
Jael Byrd says
Hi Phyllis,
Thank you for reading and I am happy that you are finding the information useful. Please let us know if there is a topic you would like us to write about!
Jael
Gold says
Thanks for the information. It was very helpful. I understand certain things about hair types now.
Rachel says
Great post, I knew about all the hair type systems after I BCd I took to the web and educated myself on how to care for natural hair and then my type of hai mainly to figure out what type of products work beet for healthy hair, and then through trial and error (although not too much error) I’ve gotten my routine down and its just a matter of sticking to what works consistently. I find that saying 3c/4c and 2bish right in front only gives you a visual of what my hair looks like, but nothing about how it responds to products, water and weather, but if I also tell you my hair is cottony, medium sized strands, dense, prone to high frizz and med sheen then you get all the pieces of the puzzle.
As for Andrew Walkers comments regardless of what he meant to say I think more women took offense because he is a man who doesn’t not have to desk with caring for his hair as a woman who could be and is often times judged by her hair, so for him to tell a woman she should relax her hair its really not his place to make that decision for the hair on someone else’s hair. It does annoy me when I hear relaxed females suggesting that you need to have a certain hair/curl type in order to go natural. I have had my occasional stylist tell me how lovely my hair is and how I don’t need a relaxer and how she’s seen some naturals and with their hair type that need to “Come on back” meaning relax their hair again. That annoyed me because it is that type of thinking that lead and leads black AA females to chemically and permanently alter their hair, and not for managebility reasons but because someone else doesn’t approve of their God given inherited strands. If someone wants to relax their hair that is their hair and their choice. I for one was tired of healthy hair that never seemed to grow beyond shoulder length. One thing I noticed since I stopped relaxing my hair, my hair has never grown in as thick as it has now since I began relaxing as a child. Another thing a stylist who is in the business of making money is not going to suggest a client stopping relaxing for the health if her hair, but their are plenty heads I see whose hair is simply too fine for relaxers, but the average stylist is not going to risk losing a customer.
Jael says
Hi Rachel,
You are spot on! I agree with you, my have was fine and whismy when I was relaxed but now, it was a mass of hair and I love it! It takes on its own persona :-)
You are right, there is no certain hair type needed when you want to wear unrelaxed hair, just do it…
Thank you for commenting,
Jael
glennis madison says
Great article. Excellent comments.
For me personally I am transitioning because everytime I got a touch up my haurline would break off so terrible that I didn’t know what to do. Thus transitioning. How I wear my hair, is how I wear MY hair. I am 50 something last relaxer 1/2/2013. Good hair? It’s good to have hair. This is the best site I have found.
Jael says
Hi Glennis!
Thank you for your compliment, we definitely appreciate it! I love your comment, ” Good hair? It’s good to have hair.”
Jael
Nidia says
This is eye opening. Naturally curly.com was the first that I came across when I decided to transition and thought that the hair typing system used there was legit and it was the thing to live by. This article however has shown me that what is popular and acceptable is not always right. and to be honest apparently my hair is a 3C but it looks nothing like the pictorial. I’m not trying to downplay the sight as they have helped in my transition journey but it also good to hear other sides.
Jael Byrd says
Hi Nidia-
Thank you so much for visiting Natural Hair Community! I am happy that we were able to provide you with useful information that gave a different and relevant viewpoint.
Jael
Rachel says
Hi Nidia, I agree the pictures for 3C at Naturallycurly.com does not fit the description of what most 3C ladies hair look like at all. Being 3C/3B/4a I think their pictures confused me the most in the beginning but finding ladies on YT and other sources I was able to determine my curl patterns, and then I had to just ignore NC’s pictures, but pay more attention to their product advice until trail and error took over from there. For one I’m finding for styling butters and creams don’t give me great definition but give me awesome volume but also more frizz than I like on day 1. Gels seem to be the answer for me, and medium to heavy gels. A lot of these “Info” sites you will sometimes find the forum more helpful than general 1 size fits all advice and suggestions that never fit all.
juwelierverbree says
Love that kinky hair style :)
Kira says
Juwelierverb, me too! I love big hair.
Keiko says
Thank you for a great article. My father has type 4 hair. My mother has type 1. I think I have 3a,b hair. Not growing up in a black community, I don’t really feel anything about hair, but having these systems really helped me to know what types of products work and which don’t work for my hair. Type 4 looks more time consuming (from what I’ve seen on YouTube, detangling, and all that twisting and braiding) but, I think it has its own beauty. :-)
Whatever says
I believe I have 4a hair or 3c not even too sure but I consider myself type 4 hair and my hair is NOT time comsuming. I don’t have detangling problems, I can jump in the shower wash and jump right out. I don’t need to comb my hair besides the basic detangling in the shower and I just finger comb. My hair rarely gets tangled. If I want to twist my hair I can simply do big twists. Every hair has its own issue but to say all 4 type hair is hard to manage is ridiculous. It simply depends on what you are trying to do with it.
Andrea says
Exactly. My hair is mix of 3c and 4a but mostly 4a. I actually find my 3c section to be more tangle prone. I also noticed several “if I had type 4 comments I would relax” comments. I really get sick of the assumption that just because someone has type 4 they have a difficult time managing their hair. Not true for everyone. 3b could just as easily have problems if they don’t know what they’re doing. Can I wash and go, Yes. Do I? Rarely because I like to wash my hair at night because leaving the house and going to work with wet hair is a no imo. it’s a matter of what people prefer. I have had many women with looser hair tell me they wish their hair was curlier like mine because mine in very thick full big and theirs flops. Everyone has their likes dislike and I dislike flat hair. For people like me looser hair is a disadvantage because you have to work harder to create volume. Honestly I think wavy hair would be difficult because it’s not curly and it’s not straight so that’s why people are constantly blow drying it or trying to scrunch to create curls. And Andre’s “suggestion” I relax my hair is one reason I don’t go to salons because this way of thinking is common. Telling people about their options and making a suggestion are two different things.
Nichole says
The commenter never actually said “all” type 4 cake is hard to manage, what they actually said was that it LOOKED more difficult to manage, so maybe your comment is the ridiculous one. It’s better to actually read what you’re commenting on rather than being so emotionally charged. That’s all I have to say, I felt the comment was somewhat unwarranted.
And for the record, I think all hair is beautiful, and think it’s wonderful that girls and women are being empowered to find and keep their natural hair.
Kira says
Keiko,
You are welcome!
Kira
kenna says
I don’t get why people.. Down play type 4 hair like that! All hair types have it’s own disadvantage. All styles or products don’t fit all hair types. If you know what works best for your hair.. Any type can be easily manageable. Alot of type 4 women have very thick, thick hair! It’s plenty of women wish they had thick hair like that. Just because you’re not a certain hair type… Doesn’t mean your hair is better then the next head. All hair doesn’t mean it’s healthy, because your a certain hair type. If you’re not taking GOOD care of your hair.. Your hair will lack a lot of healthiness. I’ve seen all hair types at the beauty supply store.. Trying to find right products to give their hair volume. From thin, thick, dry and so on! You’ll be surprised what one has to go through with any hair type. To manage their hair.
kenna says
This is very confusing to me! I’ve been natural 1 year now (two big chopped). Hair type doesn’t mean nothing to me.. But it’s good to know where you stand, so you know what type of products to use for your hair. I’ve been trying to figure this out for the longest. I know my head has 3-4 textures. My back is much looser (maybe 3c or 4a or both) my nape might be (4b or 4c) and my sides could be (4b) it’s just hard to figure this stuff out. But I’m going to try to do it on wet fully washed hair again. A few family members tease me.. Because my hair is very, very thick and can be coarse in my nape. My hair doesn’t hold moisture well, and I’ve already know my porosity level which is low. If I’m able to find the right products, I’m sure I can soften my hair up it lack moisture badly.
Zoe says
Thank you very much for this info.
I big chopped exactly a month ago after transitioning for 2 months and I can see different curl patterns on my head.
I also believe I might have scab hair because my hair at the front is straight. at d sides and crown, I have 4b, at the back 4a (if I’m going by the AW system).
I also have wiry hair and my hair doesn’t absorb water at all.
my biggest challenge now is finding products that will work for me.
Did u mention I’m Nigerian?Lol
Thanks…
Kira says
HiZoe,
Congrats on your big chop!
It is very possible that you have scab hair and it is also possibly that the straight pieces are relaxed. Time will tell as your hair gets longer.
If it takes a while for your hair to absorb moisture, it very likely that you have low porosity. Meaning your hair is cuticles are tight and flat :-)
Generally, I find that people have several curl patterns, I have at least 4 that I can readily see.
To help you with products, sign up for the newsletter and check out our product guide. It is a great place to start.
I hope this information helps,
Kira
Mary says
Great article. Thank you for posting this. Definitely learned a lot from this post. Very helpful and informative. Good job! Keep it up! :)
Shalom says
Hi..I’m Nigerian too. And I found this article really helpful..i recently bc’d and my hair is really weird? It’s got tight curls and tight waves in the same strandstrand so I’m not sure of where exactly in these classifications I would place. I find myself having curl envy of those with loser curl patterns. My shrinkage isn’t so bad but I was wondering if there were any ways I could get a loser curl pattern.
Lacey says
Thank you for this article. I’ve been trying for a few weeks to discover and understand my hair type and curl pattern. Now I can just let it go. I feel Andre Walker’s hair typing system is more simple to understand.
Kira says
Lacey,
You are welcome! I am glad you found the information helpful.
Kira
Nadine Ryant says
Thank you dear for posting ….
Kira says
You are welcome Nadine!
Kira
Ché Moni says
Incredibly informative breakdown. Thanks so much!
Kira says
Che’, I’m glad the information was helpful!
Kira
Candice says
Just curious…what hair type is pictured in the larger picture at the beginning of this article with the partial twist? Thanks!
Candice
Kira says
Hi Candice,
The twisted parts showing that are unraveled are 2c-3a curls.
Deb says
I appreciate this article. I have at least 4 different curl patters ranging from tight, pen spring curls to stretch pen spring curls, to loose waves to perfectly straight strands. My hair is straight at the roots but gets very frizzy. Detangling isn’t a problem but I do get single strand knots. My hair behaves very well when it is damp but it can get pretty dry and I do moisturize daily. Go figure!! I have yet to meet my hair twin or anyone with a texture like mine. I don’t like the hair typing because it over generalizes and tends to create this perception of “great, fairly great, whew–fairly straight and not so great”. I love my hair so much — I don’t think I would ever consider relaxing again–that’s my personal choice and is no reflection on anyone who chooses to wear relaxed hair. I am just saying I am fabulous without a relaxer and so glad I made my choice to go natural.
Diane says
I did a big shop January of 2016. After reading several articles on typing I came to the conclusion that I’m an (O) 4C. I’m trying to figure out the puracity. My hair doesn’t lather well the first time around. The second wash is full of lather. I wash, deep condition under a dryer for 15 minutes, rinse, use regular conditioner, and rinse. I then use moisturize, leave in conditioner, and oil. Next comes the curl enhancer and styling gel the finger coil (which is easiest for me). My hair is thick so I sit under the dryer at least 15 minutes to help it dry faster. The next day the coils are undone and I use a pick to get ride of the scalp that shows. I love it!! I just hope I’m using the proper products for my type hair. I cover my hair at night with a satin bonnet or and in the morning all I do is spritz with a water and oil mixture and use a pick to lift the hair and good to go. This style last 2 weeks. As my hair grows we’ll have to wait and see if I have the patience to continue, but I’m loving it right now.
Leah says
Im 4a, OS, and my hair is wiry.
katie says
My hair has thick, bouncy curls in the front around my temple and underneath and around the back, along the bottom. The rest of the thin hair on my head is stick straight. It’s really soft and thin. In humid places like Florida, the curly part expands a ton, and is impossible to tame. Do you know what type my hair might be? Any suggestions?
Kelly says
Great article! This is the first time I’ve read details about the AW and LOIS hair typing systems. FIA is completely new to me. I’ve been natural since 1999, and I pressed my hair most of the year then braided for the summer. I eventually spent 10 years with locs, which I thoroughly enjoyed. Today, I hear all women, regardless of ethnicity, putting our hair down. Those with straight hair, wish it was curly, those with curly hair, want it straight. Hair product marketing has made us “hair bipolar”. I agree with others that say the typing becomes a way to separate us. It’s in some ways the polite and socially acceptable way to say “good hair”. My hair is very thick and tightly coiled. When I came out of locs, I struggled to find styles and products to fit my hair. Now I do more DIY, keep it simple and love every strand on my head! I completely disagree with those that say very kinky or coily hair or Type 4 is more difficult to work with, has less styling options and should be relaxed. That is ridiculous. That’s the kind of noise that got us into these hair wars in the first place. Once we learn to love it, our confidence will make ANY hair type look good!
Kira says
Hi Kelly,
Thank you for your readership and your points are valid!
We definitely have to love ourselves <3
Kira
LadyT says
Ladies, no-one can define your beauty. That is 100% up to you! Short or long, full or flat, curly, wavy or kinky – hair is only one aspect of who you are.
I think I’m a 3c with dull, flat (vs full volume), no moisture hair. I never learned to comb it so my years with a relaxer were necessary. My 18 years of natural hair going between pressing comb and braids was necessary too. I had a look I wanted, an ease I was trying to find – society was a buzz in my ear although I have always been aware of what the powers that be will tolerate in my line of work.
I can now laugh at the love/hate relationship I have with my hair. I hope all of you achieve a level of love and acceptance that removes others opinions from how you view and value yourself.
Thank you for the article and conversation. I am truly learning to be happy and somewhat nappy. ;-)
Kira says
LadyT-
Thank you for your readership and partaking in the conversation!
Kira
Jay says
Based on the chart I got:
Curl pattern: 4bc
Strand width: normal to fine
Density: high
LOIS: O
Hair texture: silky
I like there is more ways to classify your hair other than just curl pattern but I wish it would’ve gone more in depth into how those other things interact with each other.
Kira says
Hi Jay,
Thank you for your readership and your feedback.
Understanding how the other things interact with each other is definitely an area we can dive into.
All the best-
Kira
Jeanette Williams says
Thank you , I’ve been wondering my exact hair type. This article was very helpful. This allows me to better implement my hair Care regimen.This includes best products for my hair type.
Again,
Thank you.
Kira says
Hi Jeanette-
Thank you for your readership and I’m happy the information was helpful to you.
Kira
ORU ORUBAU says
Its been an awesome read with the exhilarating information that this article has provided me as a new and passionate natural especially with the hair defining techniques. Thank you so much for it.
Kira says
Oru, you are welcome!
Kira says
Thank you for your readership, Irene!
Kira
Patricia Ellis says
I use Andre Walker’s hair typing system and have 3c hair around the front perimeter of my hair from ear to ear. the 4a is in the back from my ears down, and the crown is 4b. My hair is very soft and some parts are silky…however my hair is thin and fine. This makes styling a breeze, but I wear my hair in the same style because I don’t know what to do with my hair.
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Beth says
I have to make a comment on the subject of relaxers. I understand that I have no idea what it is like to have super curly/kinky hair. I am a white woman who stumbled onto this website because I was reading reviews of a product and people were talking about hair types and I had no clue what they were talking about. I personally am super happy though that natural hair has been making a comeback. I love it. I think it is beautiful. My daughter is a hair dresser and when they learned about hair relaxers she told me how awful they are on your hair. If they r put on a piece of chicken they break it down in hours. I don’t want anyone to put that on their head. There was a girl on my sons hockey team that was adopted into a white family and she always relaxed her hair (she was in high school and I think she felt pressure to fit into the white area we live in honestly) I told her mom I would love to see her go natural because it is so beautiful. Anyway if u love relaxers go for it, it is everyone’s choice. I just would hate to see anyone ruin their beautiful hair if it wasn’t for themselves. Just be true to yourself.
Ludvig Patterson says
These ‘hair typing’ systems are inaccurate and very intimidating , especially if you are a white man with a mixed daughter who is currently in the process of transitioning after a big chop. She has hair more similar to a 4b/c in appearance but if you feel through her scalp, she has different textures. You may say cut it to where the roots are and we have. We even shaved her head but she still had 4b/c hair and various textures. Reading the comments, I can see a bias here towards the 4 type hair. Everyone always say it is unmanagable, get it relaxed, do this style but if you are doing all that, are you really going natural? Everyone seems to be avoiding it but if you speak negatively about something that someone has then they are going to feel self conscience about it. This hair typing system is just a hierarchy to the very good hair to the very bad- hence why 4b/C hair is always ranked at the bottom with half of his wording dedicated to how hard it is to maintain it and offering something to manipulatefatherather disguise its look. My daughter cries about this all the time aand from my own research, I could see why.
Ludvig- concerned father
Mary says
I researched then wrote a book about dreadlocks over 20 years ago and it has withstood the test of time. One key observation was that “all hair will lock” It is a combination of the angle from which hair protrudes from the scalp, density and length when you allow the hair to wrap around itself to create a dreadlock. These scientific factors and a few others also determine how long it will take for a lock to form.
A simple act such as combing or wetting the hair will alter the natural state temporarily. Whatever you choose to do or not do with your hair is up to you.
I resist marketers who use terms like “the big chop.” EEK why would anyone think that was a well intended action? Please note that, like everything else, your hair changes with aging.
In short, people will have more positive hair experiences if they stop stressing about a catchall answer or product regarding an ever changing material. Remember, it has been proven that stress causes hair loss.
Cynthia says
Thank you for the article but I’m still confused on my hair type. It’s wavy when wet (or gelled) but mostly frizzy when dry. I guess I’m 5R. I’m new to this and getting really frustrated!
Marie says
You are probably using shampoo with sulfates. Stop it now! Use a light conditioner like Sauve or Alberto VO5 as your “shampoo” for now on. Make sure there is some kind of hydrolized protein in it, such as keratin, rice or wheat or silk protein, whatever.
Do not brush or comb your hair when dry. That rips apart your curl families and creates frizz. I don’t want to say what I really think of the many hairdressers who dry combed my hair, those ignorant sobs.
Use a little coconut oil in your hair. I also like Jamaican black castor oil, use very little but warm it in your hands first. I like to rub my hands together to heat it up then distribute through my hair.
Use some kind of gel or mousse but do not use anything with dimethecone in it.
Deep condition once a week.
Sleep with a silk or satin pillowcase or a cap. Once my hair grew out, I started braiding it into one long braid at night. Use a soft scrunchy or a plastic spring hair tie.
I think knowing your porousity is more important than texture. Sounds like your hair has high porousity. I also used to love my hair when it was wet and hated the frizz and poof when it dried. I thought I had no curl pattern. Once I learned to better care for my hair, I came to have lovely S waves, or mermaid hair if you will.
Cheatah says
I don’t understand why a ranking system is needed except to identify. It’s pretty much common sense. 4c hair is not hard to manage. We are just not use to it because most of us grew up with relaxers. We have never experienced our hair. I know exactly how to manage it- moisturize everyday and leave it alone. It is what it is. It’s only hard if you want it to be something that it is not. I straighten it on special occasions, but that’s it.
Lynn says
Thanks for this article. Although I don’t agree with the term ‘African American’ hair or ‘natural’ hair. Would not African hair be simply ‘African’ hair? Is ‘natural’ hair unique to people of African heritage? Or can anyone of any race have natural hair?. Chemical free might be a better term for anyone with no chemicals in their hair.
My hair is very kinky, I guess a 4C. I agree with Chetah it is only hard to manage because of social conditioning. I am older and have used relaxer or straightening most of my life. My hair is past shoulder length and whether chemically straighten or chemical free I am tired of messing with it. But it is very kinky so it is a beast with no chemicals.
Uberhaute Looks says
I transitioned finally and I’ll tell you something crazy; when I used to relax my hair, I used to think something was wrong with my pubic hair till I transitioned fully and found out my pubic hair is also same as the one on my head.
I believe I fall under the 4c system but, my hair is very thick and dense.
I can’t comb without spritzing water or washing my hair and afterwards, it shrinks!
If I wear weaves like cornrows, the mouth always feel coarse while my edges always sleep just with my sweat or saliva!
So, I can safely say that I have different hair types.
Am I happy? Yes I am because hair means a lot more…it protects our scalp, makes us look beautiful whatever styling and I’m proud to finally know how to care for my hair and fully embrace it.
Well done for this beautiful piece and I have bookmarked for further reading. Thanks!
Dove says
hi.
the article is interest.
I have tried both sides and know a bit what it is like. Relaxed hair may seem easier to manage but it is not always the case. i had more trouble with relaxed hair than natural; I had to think of relaxing each time I had a 2-months undergrowth and that wasn’t funny for my volume and texture. I have the extreme type – 4C/thick/coarse and i can assure you it is n’t that difficult to manage but I LOVE it so. It’s “answers” so well with dreads and people often confuse it for dread extensions :)
Isn’t nature beautiful?
Tina G. says
Thank you for this article. It has inspired me to change my brands of hair products. And to change my lazy 3C hairstyle. I really enjoyed the commenters here which also inspired me to start paying more attention to my hair and to spend more time on my hair taking care of it. I know in 3 months I will see a great improvement in the condition and health of my hair when I start a dedicated routine for my hair.
Hotep Kenyatta says
Andre’s statement re type 4 hair was very anti black racist. No matter what he communicates from this point forward, the cat’s already out of the bag. I won’t be following him, nor his hair typing/styles/preferences since they are inherently racist.
Kitty says
Very clear and concise – first time I’m fully grasping the difference between the hair types and actually understanding in depth. Grateful for this well researched piece, learned so much to help my somewhat 4b/C hair already.
Isabella Mackenzie says
My hair honestly annoys me so much, it is naturally a mix of curvy, wavy and curly but when i brush it the strands separate from each other and it becomes extremely poofy. What is my hair?
elaine says
Thank you…..I am a woman with “Jewish” hair, not straight, not a #2, not frizzy but thick and barely wavy unless it is humid and the get a little curl if it’d cut right….my point my black friends often talk about “good” hair vs “bad” hair….I agree there is no bad hair….I’ve been saying this forever. I love natural black hair. Wish I had more curls
Mea says
The diagram of 4a looks like most of mine,but the photo he uses is a girl with 3B hair! And then says its more S-shaped! How confusing! The 4a diagram is O-shaped, ie, spiral, not S-wavy! My hair is def wiry by his definition, with low frizz. At my crown I have some of what he calls 4c, which, by order of curliness should be named 4b, but I get that it was an add-on to his formula, making it behind what he already deemed 4b. But still… Wish I could post hair pics!
La Donna says
I think Andre Walker is wrong in saying that Type 4 hair is does not have styling options unless it’s straightened.
Type 4 natural hair can be worn in a wash and go, braids, twists, and buns and many other styles. Plus Type 4 hair can hold a protective style longer than looser curl patterns. Protective styles on looser curl patterns tend to frizz more easily.
When I watch natural hair vloggers on Youtube. It seems like the Type 4 vloggers do a different variety of styles. On the other hand, the Type 2 and Type 3 vloggers only seem to do wash and go’s. I viewed a Type 3 vlogger’s channel it just looked like 101 ways to do a wash and go. Same hair style but just trying different products with each video. So I don’t know what Andre Walker is talking about.