The natural hair community has been buzzing over the benefits of using rice water rinses, but the effects of using hard water on natural hair have been discussed for the past several years.
Frequently asked questions about hard water include:
- How does hard water affect your hair?
- Can hard water cause hair breakage or damage?
- Does hard water lead to hair loss (or hair fall)?
- How can you protect your hair from hard water?
In this article, we discuss how to prevent hard water hair damage (including hair breakage) and how to encourage healthy hair growth. Let's discuss hair health and our approach to hard water hair treatments.
An Overview of the Effects of Hard Water on Hair
Hard water can leave minerals on your hair, and those minerals can make your hair strands a little stiffer and weaker. In a 2013 study published in the International Journal of Trichology, researchers compared the tensile strength (i.e., how much pulling a hair strand can take before it snaps) of hair soaked in hard water against hair soaked in distilled water.
Here is a brief breakdown of the findings: that study found no difference, but two later studies with more people found that hard water did weaken hair a little.
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A Scientific Case Study on Hard Water Hair - Can Hard Water Damage Hair?
During the study, 10 to 15 hair strands that had fallen out during combing, each 15 to 20 centimeters long, were collected from 15 volunteers. Each hair sample was cut in half to allow for direct comparison.
Half of the hair samples were submerged in hard water, and the other half were submerged in distilled water (i.e., soft water). Each soak lasted only 10 minutes, but the soaks were repeated every other day for a month.
A strength tester was then used in order to determine how tensile and elastic each hair strand was after its corresponding treatment.
The study found that the tensile strength and elastic nature of each hair sample showed no discernible difference when treated with one form of water over the other. Therefore, according to this study, hard water doesn't reduce the tensile strength of hair.
However, two later studies from the same research team in Pakistan tested more people for longer and found a small difference. In a 2016 study of 76 men, hair soaked in hard water every other day for three months was about 7% weaker than hair soaked in deionized water (i.e., water with the minerals taken out). A 2018 follow-up with 70 men found a similar drop of about 8%. Both drops were small, but they were too big to be a fluke of the test.
Another study, from 2011, looked at where the minerals go. It found that calcium and magnesium from hard water collect mostly in your hair's cuticle (i.e., the outer layer of each strand), and that bleached and chemically treated hair soaks up more of them. The minerals made hair strands stiffer. Unbleached hair actually held a style a little better, while bleached hair held it slightly worse.
So hard water probably won't ruin your hair, but it's worth taking a few precautions, especially if your hair is colored or bleached.
Most U.S. Households Suffer from Hard Water
It's often said that once you go natural, water should no longer be avoided like the plague. While the premise of that statement is ultimately true, there are a few things about water that you should be concerned about even after you go natural.
How hard your water is depends on where you live. The U.S. Geological Survey calls water with more than 120 milligrams of calcium carbonate per liter (mg/L) hard, and anything over 180 mg/L very hard. Virginia Tech's water specialists say water under 120 mg/L, or 7 grains per gallon, usually doesn't need treatment.
Hard water has high levels of calcium and magnesium. These minerals keep shampoo from lathering as well and can leave a film on your hair, which can make it feel dull and lifeless.
If you believe that you have hard water, you can use water test strips or a water test meter to measure your overall water quality. To limit hard water build-up on your hair, a chelating shampoo can help.
Chelating shampoos are similar to clarifying shampoos, which remove product residue, but they also contain chelating agents. These ingredients grab onto minerals and metals like calcium, magnesium, and copper, which can help limit how much builds up on your hair.
If you're dealing with hard water, we recommend purchasing a chelating shampoo or a hard water shampoo.
Two favorites are Kenra Clarifying Shampoo and Malibu C Hard Water Wellness Shampoo, although some additional examples are available in our natural hair products guide and within the next section of this article.
Over the long term, the most common fix is a whole-house water softener, which swaps the calcium and magnesium in your water for sodium. Shower head filters are a different product. The national standard for shower filters, NSF/ANSI 177, only covers how well they remove chlorine, so a shower filter isn't a reliable way to soften your water.
You can also use purified bottled water in the interim while you install a water softener.
Best Shampoos for Hard Water
Below are some of the best shampoos for hard water, no matter your hair type or texture. When washing your hair with hard water, you want to use a chelating shampoo or clarifying hard water shampoo.
Many shampoos contain EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid), a chelating agent that grabs onto the calcium and magnesium in your wash water so they don't form a dull scum on your hair. Even so, you might prefer a shampoo made with more natural ingredients.
However, there are clarifying shampoos and other hard water hair treatments out there with a wide range of natural ingredients, so you are bound to find the right fit eventually.
Just remember that some of these shampoos can dry your hair out, so be sure to pair them with a moisturizing leave-in conditioner.
1. ACURE Curiously Clarifying Lemongrass Oil and Argan Oil
If you have oily hair, then this clarifying shampoo from Acure is a top pick. Thanks to its botanical blend, it is the perfect combination of gentleness and strength. It includes a paraben-, phthalate-, silicone-, and sulfate-free formula and is normally relatively inexpensive.
The natural oils, including argan, avocado, pumpkin, and sea buckthorn, are there to replenish moisture, not to clear away mineral buildup.
Meanwhile, essential oils such as lavender, lemongrass, and rosemary help to improve the hair's softness and restore shine. This shampoo is great for all hair types, but it is especially good for oily hair.
Pros:
- Blend of organic botanical oils
- Gently removes buildup
- Perfect for oily/greasy hair
- Reinvigorates hair's natural shine
- Vegan
Cons:
- Clarifying, but not volumizing
- Weighs hair down a bit
2. Kenra Clarifying Shampoo
This Kenra shampoo is an all-around great choice for all hair types. Not only does it remove mineral build-up, but it won't completely dry your hair out in the process.
Individuals with oily, dry, and curly hair have all tried this shampoo and have given it high marks. It contains a chelating agent, and like any clarifying shampoo, it's best used sparingly if your hair is color-treated.
Besides the chelating agent, this formula contains nourishing wheat protein, moisturizing aloe extract, and clarifying witch hazel. The citric acid and grapefruit extract in this shampoo give it a fruity aroma.
One wash or two with this will reveal why experts consider it one of the best shampoos for hard water.
Pros:
- Gentle enough for regular use on natural hair
- Contains a chelating agent
- Includes natural botanicals and oils
- Pleasant scent
- Produces heavy, clarifying suds
Cons:
- Best used sparingly on color-treated hair
- Leaves dry hair a bit coarse
3. Milkshake Deep Cleansing Shampoo
For those with a dry or sensitive scalp, turn to this milkshake formula. It costs about twice as much as many other clarifying shampoos, but the experts say it is well worth it.
EDTA is a chelating agent, which means it grabs onto minerals like calcium and magnesium in your water. It's a great shampoo to have on hand if you're an avid swimmer, too.
Besides the EDTA, this formula contains milk proteins to condition your hair. The addition of honey and fruit extracts counteracts any drying that would take place in the clarifying process.
Pros:
- Contains conditioning milk proteins
- Great choice for those with sensitive scalps
- Maintains pH and moisture balance
- Removes mineral buildup and chlorine
- Safe for all hair types
Cons:
- A bit pricier
4. Moroccanoil Clarifying Shampoo
This Moroccanoil shampoo is one of the best shampoos for hard water, especially for people whose hair needs some extra TLC. This formula is great for dry hair, as well as color-treated hair, and works well to diminish hard water and mineral buildup.
It includes jojoba oil and keratin for intense moisturization, as well as hair-nourishing argan and avocado oils. Essentially, this shampoo leaves hair clean and clear, as well as revitalized.
You can also rest assured, knowing that it's free of parabens, phosphates, and sulfates. Experts often recommend this clarifying formula for color-treated hair since it won't strip the color.
Pros:
- Balanced botanical blend
- Color-safe formula
- Designed for dry, brittle hair
- Great option for color-treated hair
- Nourishes and cleanses hair
Cons:
- Expensive formula ($25+)
- Left some clients' hair very dry
5. Malibu C Hard Water Wellness Shampoo
If you live with hard water, this Malibu C shampoo is made for exactly that. It's a sulfate-free clarifying shampoo that Malibu C says removes minerals and buildup while keeping your hair from drying out.
Its formula includes citric acid, a chelating agent, along with provitamin B5 and flax protein. Malibu C says the shampoo helps shield your hair from hard water minerals. It's also made to be safe for colored and processed hair.
For a deeper clean, Malibu C suggests following it with its Hard Water Wellness Remedy and Hard Water Wellness Conditioner.
Pros:
- Made specifically for hard water
- Sulfate-free
- Safe for colored and processed hair
- Vegan
Cons:
- One of the pricier picks on this list
- Malibu C suggests a three-step routine for the full effect
6. R+Co Acid Wash ACV Cleansing Rinse
This clarifying shampoo costs a pretty penny, but it is totally safe for color-treated hair. R+Co says this gentle floral formula detoxifies your hair to remove impurities without removing oils or color.
It's also a vegan-friendly option and doesn't include any parabens or sulfates. Instead of using EDTA, it contains apple fruit extract, aloe vera leaf juice, and tamanu seed oil for nourishment, strength, and cleanliness.
Pros:
- Easy on the scalp
- Free of parabens and sulfates
- Pleasant floral aroma
- Safe for everyday use
- Top pick for color-treated hair
Cons:
- Doesn't have the same effect as EDTA
- Pricey formula
7. Shea Moisture Strengthen and Restore Shampoo for Damaged Hair
Looking for something natural and free of EDTA? This Shea Moisture shampoo isn't a clarifying shampoo, so it won't remove mineral buildup on its own. It's a moisturizing shampoo for damaged hair, so it's a good pick for the wash days between clarifying washes.
This formula includes Jamaican black castor oil and shea butter for extra nourishment, along with peppermint and aloe leaf juice.
Pros:
- Affordable price
- Made for damaged and chemically processed hair
- Environmentally safe shampoo
- Gentle, creamy lather
- Safe for daily use
Cons:
- Can leave hair dry
- Not the best smell
DIY Homemade Chelating Hair Rinse
Citric acid, commonly used in shampoos and conditioners to adjust the pH, is a chelating ingredient. It's possible that it won't work as intended to help mitigate the effects of hard water, but it's worth trying for the do-it-yourself crowd.
The basic recipe for the homemade chelating hair rinse is to mix one part lemon juice, which is rich in citric acid, with four parts distilled water. You can wash your hair as you normally would, pour the chelating hair rinse over your hair, and finish with a final rinse to remove the remaining product and condition your hair.
As per usual, with do-it-yourself hair treatments, this will likely take a little trial and error to master.
Don't Wash with Hot Water
You don’t need very hot water to clean your hair. It may leave already-dry curls and your scalp feeling even more stripped, especially when you’re using a strong cleanser or chelating shampoo. Use lukewarm water instead.
Let your conditioner handle the smoothing. A low-pH conditioner can reduce friction and help the cuticle scales lie flatter. You don’t need an icy finishing rinse to get that result.
Wash Often Enough, But Not Too Often
There are various types of shampoos, one for nearly every type of situation that you can imagine.
New naturals and experienced naturals alike can easily get confused about choosing a shampoo.
However, even after you settle on a shampoo that you really like, it's important to make sure that you're not washing your hair too often. In our natural hair article, we note that you must figure out how often you need to wash your hair. There really is no "right" answer.
Everyone's hair is different, and the hair products and elements that you're exposed to every day are different than any other person's.
If you're over-washing your hair, it might start to look dull. However, it's important to wash often enough to remove product build-up that can adversely affect your hair.
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Hard water is full of minerals such as calcium and magnesium. While not dangerous, hard water can leave your hair dull and a little weaker, which can make it more prone to breakage. Bleached and chemically treated hair also soaks up more of these minerals than untreated hair does.
Hard water is linked to hair strands breaking, not to hair falling out at the root. If your hair is thinning or coming out in patches, that's worth a visit to a dermatologist.
If you're a new natural looking to determine how often to wash your hair, you can begin by washing your hair once each week.
Pay close attention to how your hair reacts to your washing regimen for several weeks and make changes when needed until you have perfected your natural hair regimen.
