Have you recently decided to take the plunge and start your loc journey? Congrats! Starting locs on 4C hair can be an exciting and rewarding journey, but it's essential to know the basics.
Before you start, it’s worth checking that this is the right method for your hair. Our loc method matcher compares all seven in about two minutes.
So in this article, we'll give you the rundown on how to do starter locs on 4C hair. We'll walk you through all the steps and answer all of your other loc-related questions. Are you excited to try something new? Let's get started!
How to Do Starter Locs on 4C Hair: DIY Step-by-Step
The good news is that you have a ton of options when it comes to locking 4C natural hair. Your ideal starter loc method ultimately depends on your personal preferences. Below, we'll break down the pros and cons of each technique so you can choose the right one for you.
Whichever method you choose, you’ll start by parting your hair into sections, and each section becomes one loc for good. So decide how big you want your locs before you make your first part. Very small parts make very thin locs, and each thin loc is held by fewer hairs at your scalp. That’s why dermatologists suggest thicker locs over very thin ones, especially if your edges are fragile.
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Comb Coiling Method
The comb coiling method is one of the most popular ways to start locs on 4C natural hair. Coils are sleek, tubular sections of hair that turn into locs when left alone. Unfortunately, comb coils are prone to unraveling, especially if you get them wet.
But the good news is that they'll immediately give you the look and feel of locs. Just keep in mind that this is one of the most difficult loc-starting techniques to execute. For that reason, comb coil starter locs are usually left to professional locticians.
But if you want to DIY your locs, start with damp, freshly washed hair. This method works with hair as short as about 2 inches, so it’s a good fit if you’re working with a short cut or a TWA (teeny weeny afro).
Separate a small, square section of hair at your nape, and comb through it with a fine-tooth comb. If you like, you can apply a bit of wax or gel to the section and insert the teeth of the comb at the base of the section, close to your scalp.
Then, twist the comb around to create a neat coil. Create another small section right next to your first one, and repeat the process until you've finished the rest of your hair.
Two Strand Twists
Perhaps the most straightforward way to start your locs is with two-strand twists. There's no braiding required! You’ll need about 4 to 5 inches of hair for the twists to hold, though. If your hair is shorter than that, comb coils or freeform locs can get you started sooner. Ready to learn how to do it?
To start, part your hair into square-shaped sections. Split each section in two, and twist the half sections around each other to create a rope-like twist.
Then, move on to the next section and keep twisting your hair until you're left with a head full of neat, two-strand twists. And that's all there is to it!
The one downside to this method is that two-strand twists don't have a lot of staying power. So in the days following your installation, a few may come unraveled. If that happens, just retwist them.
Box Braids
Box braids are another excellent way to begin your loc journey. Starting with box braids will leave you with similar-looking results as the two-strand twist method but with a few key differences.
Box braids are the sturdiest way to start, so they hold together through washing and sweat better than coils or twists. But unfortunately, it isn't all good news. Starting locs with braids can leave each of your locs with a braided impression that can remain visible for years.
If you want to give box braid starter locs a try, part your hair into small, box-shaped sections and braid each one from root to the ends of your hair. To prevent the braid from unraveling, apply a little gel to the ends and coil them around your finger.
Free Form Locs
Starter locs don't get any easier or low-maintenance than free-form locs. 4C hair has a uniquely kinky curly texture, which allows it to loc easily on its own. Simply refrain from brushing or combing your hair. Over time, your curls will cling to each other and form locs of different shapes and sizes.
With freeform locs, you're essentially letting your hair do its thing while you keep your hands out of your hair, no matter how unkempt your developing locs may look at times. It takes an enormous amount of self-control and patience to do this. They’re also the slowest locs to look mature. Expect anywhere from about a year and a half to three years or longer, since nothing shapes them as they form.
Note: If you're new to locs, the techniques described within this article will help you start dreads, dreadlocks, and locs, which we use interchangeably. Our goal is to help you determine which interlocking method works best for your locs journey.
How Long Does It Take for 4C Hair to Loc?
Unfortunately, there's no set timeline for starting locs. Depending on your starting method, maintenance routine, and hair texture, the process may be faster or slower for some people. But you should know one thing about 4C hair - it locks up faster than every other hair type. Tightly coiled strands knot and tangle with the strands around them all on their own. When researchers looked at hair under a microscope, 10% to 16% of tightly coiled hairs had knots in them, compared with 0.15% of straighter hairs.
So, if you have 4C hair, your locs will usually start to lock within 3 to 6 months. Fully mature locs take longer, typically about 15 to 18 months on 4C hair, and anywhere from about 12 to 24 months is normal. Looser curl patterns tend to land toward the longer end.
Locs don't just pop up one day out of the blue, either. They develop slowly but surely over time. Here are the stages your locs must go through to become mature:
- Starter locs - This is the stage everyone's locs start in. Your locs will look the same as the method you started them with, whether it be two-strand twists, three-strand plaits, comb coils, etc.
- Budding locs - This is the stage where your locs start to look like they're doing something. You'll see lumps and bumps down the length of some or all of your locs. It can make styling your locs difficult for a while. Your locs will also look super thick in this stage.
- Teenage locs - This is the rebellious stage of the locking process. Teenage locs go every which way, don't hang right, and may be super frizzy at times.
- Mature locs - Mature locs have a uniform shape from roots to ends; they aren't overly frizzy, and they're bump-free in most cases. They also won't require a ton of maintenance to look and feel great. This is the stage where you'll feel like you've arrived!
- Rooted locs - This is a stage that's not always referenced - it's the stage where your locs have truly come into their own. They're a little slimmer than they were before, and they'll feel a little heavier as they get longer.
On 4C hair, the starter stage usually lasts about 3 to 6 months, budding about 6 months, and the teenage stage about another 6 months. That puts most 4C locs in the mature stage at around 15 months or later, and the rooted stage often begins around 18 months. Looser curls usually spend longer in each stage. It’s also normal for a few locs on the same head to sit in a different stage from the rest, so don’t worry if some lag behind.
What Not to Do With Starter Locs
Installing your starter locs is the start. You'll also have to care for them so they won't unravel and they'll stay perfectly defined. In this section, we'll examine several things you should avoid when you have locs.
Don't Overwash Your Locs
One of the worst things you can do to starter locs is wash them too frequently. Although cleansing your hair and scalp is necessary for your hair's health, the moisture and manipulation can pull your locs apart and ruin your definition.
So try to strike a balance between washing your hair enough but not too frequently. For most people, this works out to be once a week or every other week while your locs are new. That’s the same schedule dermatologists recommend for tightly coiled hair, because it keeps hair products from building up and drying out your hair. If a few coils or twists loosen after a wash in the first few months, that’s normal. Just redo any that come all the way undone.
Avoid Using Too Much Product
Gels, waxes, and other products are often used to slick down your edges or keep your retwisted roots from unraveling. Unfortunately, these products can leave behind a stubborn residue that builds up inside your locs and can leave your hair dry.
So avoid overloading your locs with products, particularly ones that are waxy or sticky. Instead, use gentle, water-based products to nourish and strengthen your hair as needed.
Don't Retwist Your Roots Too Often
We recommend spacing your retwists at least four weeks apart, even when your new growth looks fuzzy. A retwist twists the loose hair at your roots back into each loc, so it helps new locs keep their shape. But retwisting more often than that, or so tightly that it hurts, puts tension on your roots and can thin your locs where they meet your scalp.
Dermatologists list locs among the styles that can cause traction alopecia when they’re too tight. Traction alopecia is hair loss from constant tension on your hair, and it can become permanent the longer it goes untreated.
Pain, stinging, crusts on your scalp, or tenting (small spots where your scalp is lifted into a peak) after a retwist mean it’s too tight. That’s not normal. Have the retwist loosened right away, and if you notice broken hairs around your forehead or a thinning hairline, see a board-certified dermatologist.
How to Care for Your Starter Locs
Caring for your starter locs isn’t only about knowing what to avoid. The following two habits can make a major difference in how your locs look, feel, and develop.
Deep Condition Your Starter Locs
Conditioning treatments are essential for 4C hair, even after you start your loc journey. They contain moisturizing, strengthening, and nourishing ingredients that help keep your hair healthy and reduce dryness and breakage.
While your locs are brand new, though, hold off on rich deep conditioners until they start to bud, usually after the first few months. Conditioner makes hair slippery, and new coils and twists unravel more easily when they’re slippery. Until then, after rinsing out your shampoo, smooth a light conditioner over the ends of your hair, which are the oldest and most fragile part of each strand, and rinse your locs thoroughly. Don’t leave any product behind that could cause buildup.
You Don’t Have to Care for Your Locs Alone
With so much loc information available online, more people than ever are starting and maintaining their locs at home. There’s nothing wrong with taking your loc journey into your own hands, but you don’t have to figure out everything by yourself.
Visiting a qualified loctician can save you time and frustration in the long run. They can spot potential problems early, correct them before they affect how your locs develop, and give you personalized advice to help your locs thrive.
Original Curl Centric chart
How often should you do each thing to new locs?
Find the step you’re unsure about, then check how often to do it and when to change what you’re doing. Green rows belong in every routine. Amber rows help your locs, but only in small amounts or at the right time.
| What to do | How often | Why it matters | Change what you’re doing if |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wash your locs | Once a week or every other week while your locs are new. | Washing keeps hair products from building up and drying out your hair. Washing more often than that keeps loosening coils and twists that haven’t locked yet. | A few coils or twists loosen after a wash. That’s normal in the first few months, so just redo the ones that come all the way undone. |
| Condition your ends | Every time you wash. Pick a light conditioner. | Your ends are the oldest and most fragile part of each strand. | Your new locs unravel after you condition. Keep conditioner on your ends only, and rinse it all out. |
| See a loctician | Early in the starter stage, and any time something looks off. | A loctician can spot a problem early and fix it before it changes how your locs grow in. | You see broken hairs around your forehead or a thinning hairline. See a board-certified dermatologist, not just a loctician. |
| Retwist your roots | At least four weeks apart, even when your roots look fuzzy. | Retwisting helps new locs keep their shape, but every retwist puts tension on your roots. | You feel pain, stinging, crusts, or tenting on your scalp afterward. The retwist is too tight, so have it loosened right away. |
| Use gel, wax, or locking cream | A small amount, only where you need hold. | Whatever doesn’t rinse out builds up inside your locs. | Your locs feel stiff, heavy, or coated. Use less and switch to a lighter, water-based product. |
| Deep condition | Wait until your locs start to bud, often 3 to 6 months in on 4C hair and longer on looser curls. | Rich conditioners make hair slippery, and new coils and twists unravel more easily when they’re slippery. | Your locs have started to bud, and your hair feels dry. Add deep conditioning back into your wash day. |
These are typical schedules for new locs, not deadlines. If your scalp hurts, stings, or crusts over after a retwist, or your hairline starts to thin, have the retwist loosened and see a board-certified dermatologist.
Starter Locs on 4C Hair FAQs
What Is the Best Way to Start Locs on 4C Hair?
The best way to start locs on 4C hair is by selecting a suitable method, such as comb coiling, two-strand twists, or box braids, depending on personal preferences and hair care needs. Each method offers distinct advantages and challenges, so researching and comparing these techniques will help you make an informed decision.
Should I Lock My 4C Hair?
Locking your hair is a personal decision based on your desired hairstyle, maintenance preferences, and comfort with the loc journey. Locs can be a beautiful, low-maintenance option for those who appreciate natural hairstyles and are willing to commit to the process. Researching the process, understanding the commitment, and consulting with a professional loctician can help you decide if locs are right for you.
What Are the 4 Stages of Starter Locs?
The four stages of starter locs are: 1) the initial starter locs stage, where locs resemble the method used to create them; 2) the budding locs phase, characterized by lumps and bumps that may make styling challenging; 3) the teenage locs stage, where locs appear rebellious, frizzy, and unruly; and 4) the mature locs stage, where locs have a uniform shape, require minimal maintenance, and feel great.
What's the Best Way to Start Locs with Short Hair?
The best way to start locs with short hair is based on your preference. For those with short hair, one method we like for starting locs is the freeform technique, which allows the hair to naturally lock on its own over time. By refraining from combing or brushing and allowing the hair to follow its natural course, locs will eventually form with minimal intervention.
Another option for starting locs with short hair is comb coils, which work with hair as short as about 2 inches. Two-strand twists need more, about 4 to 5 inches, so they work better once your hair has grown out a bit.
We also like the sponge method, which involves rubbing a specially designed sponge with holes on damp hair in a circular motion to create small, coiled sections. This method is well-suited for shorter hair and can help kickstart the loc journey with minimal effort.
How Long Does It Take 4C Locs to Bud?
The time it takes for 4C locs to bud is typically shorter than other hair types, as the kinky texture allows for faster locking. On 4C hair, budding usually begins within 3 to 6 months, and looser curl patterns often take closer to 6 to 12 months, depending on the starting method, maintenance routine, and individual hair characteristics.
How Do You Maintain 4C Locs?
Maintaining 4C locs involves a balance of proper care and minimal manipulation. The maintenance process includes washing once a week or every other week, conditioning your ends, saving deep conditioning until your locs start to bud, avoiding excessive product use, spacing retwists at least four weeks apart, and ensuring that the locs remain moisturized to maintain their health and appearance.
Can You Comb out 4C Locs?
Combing out 4C locs is possible, although it can be a time-consuming and labor-intensive process. Expect each loc to take an hour or more, so a full head can take several days. With patience, a wide-tooth comb, and ample conditioning and detangling products, the locs can gradually be combed out to return the hair to its natural, curly state. The key is to work slowly and methodically, starting from the tips of your locs and working toward the roots of your hair to minimize hair breakage and loss.
Can You Do Butterfly Locs on 4C Hair?
Butterfly locs are a versatile and stylish option that can be done on 4C hair. They're faux locs, which means your own hair is braided underneath wrapped extension hair, so they won't lock your hair the way starter locs do, and they should come down within about six to eight weeks. With proper preparation and technique, butterfly locs can be achieved, creating a protective and fashionable hairstyle that those with type 4 natural hair can enjoy.
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- How to Sleep With Starter Locs
Starting dreadlocks can be a rewarding journey, with various methods available to initiate the process, such as comb coiling, two-strand twists, and box braids. The locs hair journey involves different loc stages, including starter locs, baby locs, and eventually mature locs, with each phase requiring different levels of care.
It's essential to deep condition your hair once your locs have started to bud and to be mindful of the products used to ensure healthy locs. For those with short hair, methods like the sponge technique can help kickstart the process.
Starting locs on 4C natural hair allows for a range of natural locs hairstyles and provides an opportunity to embrace the versatility of kinky hair. Whether you choose to start your locs journey at home or seek professional assistance, proper care and patience are crucial for success.
So, there you have it - everything you need to know about starting locs on 4C natural hair. We hope you found all the information you were looking for and that your loc journey turns out to be everything you want it to be. Good luck with locking your natural hair!
