Researched and written by Curl Centric. Read by an AI voice.
Curly and coily hair can usually go longer between washes than straight hair, but your scalp can't wait forever. We explain both sides and how to find a wash schedule that works for your hair.
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Transcript
This is Curl Science by Curl Centric.
If you've ever felt guilty for going a week or two between wash days, or been told that washing less will make your hair grow, this one's for you. In this episode, we'll explain why curly and coily hair can usually go longer between washes than straight hair, why your scalp can't wait forever, and how to find the schedule that works for your hair.
Let's start with the honest answer. Dermatologists don't give one number. The American Academy of Dermatology says to wash your hair based on how quickly it becomes dirty or oily. If you have straight hair and an oily scalp, you may need to shampoo every day. If your hair is dry, textured, curly, or thick, it says to shampoo when needed and at least once every two to three weeks.
The academy's advice for Black hair is to wash once a week or every other week. Put that together, and many women with curly hair do well washing every few days to once a week. Tightly coiled hair often does well with once a week or every other week. For dry, textured hair, two to three weeks is the longest gap the academy suggests.
So why can curls wait longer? Your scalp makes its own natural oil. Dermatology reviews describe that oil spreading easily down straight hair and having a harder time traveling along a curl. Every bend slows it down. That's why straight hair can start looking oily sooner, while curly and coily hair may feel dry at the ends even when the scalp is oily.
And yes, you can have both at once. One review notes that curly and wavy hair can be more prone to an oily scalp and drier strands. An oily scalp doesn't mean your entire head needs the same treatment.
Here's a common myth. You may have heard that washing less trains your scalp to make less oil. In one study, researchers changed how often people washed their hair from once a week to three times a week. The oil returned at the same rate either way. Your scalp doesn't learn a new schedule. It makes the oil it makes.
So what can washing cost your curls? Shampoo is a cleanser, and a strong one removes oil and leaves more friction between your strands. That's why the academy says to use conditioner every time you wash and to coat your ends, since they're the oldest and most fragile part of your hair.
Every wash day also means detangling. Wet hair stretches and gives way more easily than dry hair. In one lab study, soaked hair began to give way at about one-third of the force needed at normal room humidity. So every wash day brings another opportunity for breakage if you rush through detangling.
That doesn't mean wet hair is the enemy. Combing tightly coiled hair can actually take less work when it's wet. The academy recommends detangling curly hair in the shower, with conditioner still in, using a wide-tooth comb. The goal isn't to avoid water. It's to avoid unnecessary detangling sessions and to be gentle during the ones you need.
Before we get to the other side of this, one quick ask. If you want more answers like this, follow the show, so the next one finds you.
Now, here's why your scalp can't wait forever. Your scalp is skin. It sheds dead cells, makes oil, and collects sweat and product. The academy says washing once a week or every other week helps prevent product buildup, which can dry out your hair. It also says flakes can sometimes come from not shampooing often enough.
The most extreme example comes from members of a Japanese research expedition to Antarctica who couldn't wash their hair for three months. The amount of yeast living on their scalps rose by roughly 100 to more than 900 times, and they developed itchy, scaly scalps. That's an extreme situation, but it shows what can happen when the scalp isn't cleaned for a long time.
A large study in China also found that people who washed more often had less flaking, itching, and oil. But that study had important limits. It was paid for by a shampoo company, the participants had straight or slightly wavy hair, and the frequent washers used a dandruff shampoo. The authors said they didn't know whether the results applied to curlier hair.
One more thing to keep straight: not washing doesn't cause dandruff. Dandruff isn't a hygiene problem. But going a long time between washes can make the flakes and buildup easier to see.
So how do you find your number? The academy's guide for children offers a useful way to adjust your schedule. If your hair or scalp looks oily, add one more wash each week. If your hair feels dry or dull, take one away. Then give your routine a couple of weeks and check again.
Let your scalp tell you when it's time. If it feels greasy, itchy, coated with product, or starts to smell, it's time to wash even if it hasn't been a week. If your scalp feels comfortable and only your hair feels dry, you may be able to wait and refresh your curls instead.
How you wash matters as much as how often. Put your shampoo on your scalp instead of rubbing it through your entire head. Let the suds run through your curls as you rinse. That cleans your scalp without scrubbing and drying out your ends. Then condition every time and detangle while the conditioner is still in.
What about co-washing, which means washing with conditioner? It's gentle and can help you stretch the time between shampoos. But an ordinary conditioner can't clean as thoroughly as shampoo and may leave buildup behind. Dermatology reviews say co-washing shouldn't replace shampoo completely. If you co-wash, use a regular shampoo when your scalp or hair starts to feel coated.
And sulfate-free shampoo isn't automatically gentle. Sulfate-free just means the shampoo uses a different cleanser, and some of those cleansers are strong too. What matters is how your scalp and hair feel afterward.
A few situations change the math. If you work out and sweat heavily, you may not need a full shampoo every time. Rinsing and conditioning after a heavy sweat can be enough between shampoos. If you swim, rinse your hair as soon as you leave the pool.
If you wear braids, a weave, or another protective style, keep your scalp clean and wash as often as your hair type needs. The academy also says to wear braids for no longer than six to eight weeks.
And if you see a lot of hair in the drain on wash day, don't panic. It's normal to shed 50 to 100 hairs a day. When you wash once a week, several days of shed hairs may come out at once.
So here's what we'd do. If you have curly hair, start with washing every few days to once a week. If your hair is tightly coiled, start with once a week or every other week, and try not to go longer than two to three weeks. Shampoo your scalp, condition every time, and detangle gently with conditioner in your hair. Then adjust one wash at a time based on what your scalp and curls tell you.
Our full guide to how often to wash your hair is linked in the show notes, along with our free wash day builder. And if this helped, follow the show for the next one.
That's it for this episode. If it helped, follow Curl Science in your podcast app so the next one reaches you, and leave us a rating while you're there. Curl Science is researched and written by the Curl Centric team, and it's read by an AI voice.
